Sunday 29 May 2011

Turkmenistan

Before we visited we knew very little about Turkmenistan, a small, mysterious, desert republic squeezed between Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Iran and the Caspian Sea, except that it was a totalitarian state with leaders who sounded decidedly weird: the previous President had changed his name to Turkmenbashi (Leader of the Turkmen), renamed the days of week and months of year after himself and family members and – declaring his “reign” a new Golden Age of Turkmenistan – erected enormous golden statues of himself around the town. We’d heard that since his death in 2006 his successor had toned things down a little, and implemented some much needed reforms but with the media so controlled we had no real idea what to expect.

Unfortunately, the restrictions placed on foreign travellers meant that we were limited to just a few days in the country. Yet even in our fleeting visit we saw that the cult of personality of the President continues to be cultivated: photos of the new President are everywhere and he has even built a National Museum focused on himself. We were fascinated by the contrast and contradictions between the ostentation of the grand buildings of Ashgabat and the apparent paranoia of the regime, and the gulf between the wealth and grandeur of the city and the poverty of the provincial towns and villages we saw.


Ashgabat seems designed as a showcase city to show-off the brilliance and wealth of Turkmenistan. It’s a mix of lavish white marble palaces, gold statues and domes, huge manicured parks and extravagant water features. The city is so green with trees and glorious flowerbeds it seemed unbelievable we were in the midst of a desert. The huge Government Ministries, all white marble of course, line the central streets, with fabulous Orwellian names like the Ministry of Fairness. Yet the buildings all seemed curiously quiet and we couldn’t quite believe there were enough staff to fill them. On the edge of the city are row after row of neoclassical mansion blocks of flat, all 12-15 stories high and clad in the obligatory white marble. At night the city is illuminated in garish colours, which seemed reminiscent of Las Vegas and a long way from the old Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan.


The President’s “main goal is...reviving the cultural and spiritual heritage of our nation”. This is clearly visible throughout the country: women are encouraged to wear only the national dress, while the output of the five domestic tv channels is limited to folk singing and dancing, and the statues around Ashgabat depict traditional nomadic Turkmen and their glorious and ancient past. These conveniently ignore both the Soviet period and that nomadic Turkmen were notorious for abducting and enslaving Russians and Persians. Our first day in Ashgabat we chanced upon a parade celebrating the end of the school year and it was fascinating to see a large choreographed set piece. Thousands of students in matching national dress were assembled to march in the parade, line the streets waving huge flags, or take part in traditional dances. Bizarrely though, we seemed to be the only spectators as it was largely being filmed for national television.


Walking about in Ashgabat there is no doubting that you are in a police state. There are policemen or soldiers on every corner and guarding every building and park. On many streets they outnumber the pedestrians. Armed with frequently used whistles, they continually direct people to one side of the street or the other, often for no apparent reason, and become agitated if you venture within about 30m of any building or loiter near one. Photographing any public building is strictly forbidden and so we had to become quite clandestine about taking photos and confine ourselves to capturing the residential buildings and parks outside the centre, which are less grand and less well guarded. These restrictions were mirrored in the rules for foreign tourists, who are obliged to travel with a Government authorised guide and are only permitted to stay in the few hotels set aside for foreigners (all apparently bugged).


Turkmenistan’s wealth comes from its huge reserves of gas and oil (it has the world's fourth-largest reserves of gas and substantial oil resources) and on our drive to the Caspian we saw the oil rigs stretching out across the desert. A great deal of this wealth has been spent on Presidential ‘vanity projects’, such as the new 66,000 capacity Olympic Stadium, which is curious as sports have declined in Turkmenistan since independence and apparently no Turkmen has ever qualified for an Olympic event. Similarly, a huge amount of money is being spent on developing the Caspian Sea coast as a tourist destination but unless travel restrictions and exorbitant visa fees are waived we can’t see which tourists they will attract for a break in the sun.

Much of this spending has probably resulted in less investment in other much needed infrastructure in the country, but a lot of oil and gas revenue does subsidise life in Turkmenistan. Gas, electricity and water are all free. Food – even imported foods - are heavily subsidized in the shops (for example a 500ml bottle of coke or a Mars Bar are both about 20 pence), as is transport with car drivers entitled to 120 litres of free petrol a month (and petrol costing 12 pence a litre after that) and a bus ticket in the city costing only 4 pence. The Government provides credit for people to buy property and only charges 1% interest on loans. Taxes too are kept very low: the maximum rate is only 2% and those who work in agriculture pay no tax whatsoever.


Our guide, an ethic Russian with Turkmen citizenship, was – at least to us – an emphatic supporter of the regime and extolled the virtues of the high quality of life of people experience in Turkmenistan. It certainly feels much more affluent than either Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan, not least on the roads where battered Ladas have given way to gleaming new Toyotas and Mercedes Benz. However these perks were less relevant in a village we visited in the centre of the country where there were no mains energy supplies, little public transport and housing looked extremely dilapidated. A group of American Peace Corps volunteers working in Turkmenistan we met disputed our guide’s account, and believed that most of the population remained very poor.


From visiting the President’s National Museum, we learnt that the current President was elected in 2006 following the death of the first President with a staggering 89.2% of the vote – even his main opponents supported him. The museum is hilariously packed with badly staged and photoshopped images of the President engaged in cultural pursuits: sitting outside a yurt, cooking plov, the national dish, on a mud stove, or riding a horse, as well as more modern pastimes like driving a speedboat, riding a bicycle, playing a guitar and at a shooting range. His target is even on display with the label noting his “unbelievable” perfect score! There are also photos of the President with all the world leaders he has ever met and the gifts he’s received from them.

Despite the President’s pre-election promises of reform, he remains all powerful and there is no separation of powers in Turkmenistan (the Executive, Parliament and Judiciary all report to him) and thus there are no checks and balances on his power. The museum even states that the role of Parliament is to “accept laws” the President has decreed. The President has said that “the greatest value of our society is an individual, its rights and freedoms. Today it is at the centre of our state policies”. Yet the Peace Corps volunteers we talked to suggested that life was still extremely oppressive for the people they lived and worked with, as well as for them as foreigners. Even after only a few days we found the continual police presence oppressive and were disturbed to learn that Reporters Without Borders ranked the country second to last in the press freedom index, only ahead of North Korea.


We’d entered Turkmenistan from the north, in a region that offers another example of Stalin’s damaging carve up of Central Asia. The ancient kingdom of Khorezm which existed in this region was divided up between Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, meaning that there is a large Uzbek population in this part of Turkmenistan and that there are similarities between the local ancient architecture and that we saw in Uzbekistan. For example, a 12th century Mausoleum, the II-Arslan Mausoleum, features a conical dome tiled with turquoise tiles in a zigzag design, which is the first of its kind and was exported to Samarkand by Timur. It was also interesting to see the different approaches Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan have taken to conservation and restoration. In Uzbekistan most ancient buildings have been restored (and even rebuilt) to reflect what they may have looked like when new. In Turkmenistan the focus has been on only rebuilding sections that threaten the collapse of the building. No new decorative work has taken place. This may make the monuments less awe inspiring on first sight but chancing upon an original and perfect piece can be even more rewarding, for example the original 12th century sparkling mosaic ceiling we saw in the Turabeg Khanym Complex.


From Konye-Urgench we travelled south to Ashgabat spending a night en route camping at the Darvaza Gas Craters. Sadly the village of Darvaza no longer exists (the old President didn’t like the sight of it when visiting the new nearby highway and ordered its destruction) but the gas craters, 10km off the highway in the desert, are one of the most surreal sights we’ve seen so far. The craters were dug during soviet gas exploration in the 1950s and one was set alight and is still blazing after 60 years. At night the inferno is particularly dramatic, drawing many comparisons to the gates of hell.


Similarly bizarre was the Kow-Ata underground lake, another contender for the most unusual sight we’ve seen, and certainly the strangest place we’ve ever swum. As we climbed down into the cave, the air got hotter and the smell of sulphur grew stronger until we reached the lake, 65m underground, which is naturally heated to about 36 degrees where we spent a very enjoyable morning swimming and lazing about while bats flew about overhead in the gloom.

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  26. Good Day !!

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  29. I am a spell caster called Dr Ajayi Ololo, I was the chief priest to this great temple called OLOLO at the age of 18years, and now i am almost 60 years old man. I am telling this to the world to make them know that this temple has been in existence for years and we have been durable and truthful to all. Our work here is helping anybody to getting there heart desire, Over here in this temple we grant anything you want us to do for you and when you come to this temple you must see result of our work. NOTE: TO THE ONES THAT HAS BEEN DECEIVED BY THOSE ONLINE SCAMMERS, DO NOT COMPARE THIS GREAT TEMPLE WITH ANY OTHER SPELL CASTER THAT HAS RIPPED YOU OFF YOUR MONEY BY CLAMMING TO BE SPELL CASTERS. THEY ARE ALL FAKE AND SCAMMERS ONLINE THERE TO RIP WERE THEY DID NOT SOW, COME TO OLOLO SPELL CASTING TEMPLE AND GET YOUR HEART DESIRE WITHOUT STRESS. In this temple, we work with the spirits in the spiritual realm and they tell us how to solve any problem that you are facing and also i will want you to NOTE: THAT THIS SPELL CASTING DO NOT HAVE ANY SIDE EFFECT ON ANYONE, BUT JUST TO GET YOUR HEART DESIRE AND BE HAPPY. I Dr Ajayi Ololo urge you all that has the following problem 1.} We heal barrenness in women and disturbing menstruation 2.} Get you married to anyone of your choice 3.} Guarantee you win the troubling court cases & divorce no matter how what stage 4.} Ensure success in work and business 5.} Mental illness & bewitched 6.} Can?t sleep at night or walking at night 7.} Recover stolen property and whereabouts of people that hurt you. 8.} Bring supernatural luck into 9.} Extreme protection for those doing dangerous jobs like security guards, Bank manager, cash transporters, To mention but a few.11. Get your scam money back 12.} Bring back lost lover, even if lost for a long time 13.} Remove bad spells from homes, business & customer attraction etc. 14.} Get promotion you have desired for a long time at work or in your career.16.} Remove the black spot that keeps on taking your money away 17. Find out why you are not progressing in life and the solution 18.} Eliminate in family fights 19.} Ensure excellent school grades even for children with mental disabilities 20.} Stop your marriage or relationship from breaking apart 21.} We have cure to cancer 22.} COME HERE AND SOLVE ALL YOUR PROBLEMS HERE AND GET ALL YOUR HEART DESIRES HERE WITHOUT ANY-SIDE EFFECT ON IT. ANY KIND OF PROBLEM YOU ARE FACING IN LIFE SEND YOUR EMAILS TO: ajayiololo@yahoo.com . to get it solved in the next 5 to 6 hours.

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  33. hh

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  46. My husband use to be a big time cheat i was very sure of this but i had no proof and i need something...just anything i could get my hands on as evidence so i don't sound stupid anytime i confront him about the women he often hides to talk to in his car or any other place where i wouldnt over hear their conversations.well I got a recommendation from an IT colleague at the office about a hacker from a hack network online. i got the contact of this hacker and sent him a message explain my situation to asking him if he could help me out, he politely replied and asked me for some information about my husband mobile device, no personal info was asked for also, i provided it all to him and in less than 24 hours i was getting too see my husband text messages, call logs and as well as whatsapp messages as they come into his phone, i was able to get good and solid proof for my lawyers to file a divorce, if you are having similar issues i would advice you contact him as well. i wish you the best. anonymouscredithacker@gmail.com .tell him LInda referred you.

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  47. I was researching online and I came across a glowing report of a beautiful hacker called Jamie in a trusted UK credit site. I am in the UK and I needed to improve my credit score because I couldn’t get approved for a car mortgage as a result of a poor credit score. I had medical bills, too many inquiries, charge offs, late payments and an eviction. Although Jamie lives in the united states however, as a credit repair specialist he promised to erase all the negative items influencing my credit profile negatively, replacing them with good lines of credit and eventually increase my score to a high 700 so I can be qualified for the car mortgage and even qualify for the new job I seek. Guess what happened after 7 business days - he actually did all he said he will do, deleted all the negative items and raised my score. My family and I are very happy now because I got the car mortgage and the new job. If anyone needs his or her credit fixed ASAP, whether in the Uk, Canada or US, Just run to him he will get the job done in a relatively short time. Here is his contact; creditrepairmannetwork@gmail.com

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  49. Thanks to Jamie. i was able to recover all my lost bitcoin from forex tradingguys, when it comes to recovery of funds either from binary options, crypto, forex and ponzi schemes. ( thecredittreatment@gmail.com ) His the best recovery expert i have ever seen all my life. He recovered my funds and also funds of my friends, colleagues who were in similar situation as i was.

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  53. One evening, i was reading a blog of how so many people got this blank card online when i was trying to search for a new job, but it didn't seem clear to me so i ignored. Three days later, i was so surprised to see a comment by my cousin on how he got the blank card worth Thousand Dollars and without hesitation i gave him a call to come over to the house to tell me more about the card and he told me that its a miracle that i needed to per-take. He gave me the email address of the hackers and i contact them ( darkwebcyberhackers@gmail.com OR WhatsApp: +18033921735 ) for the card and they responded and told me all the procedures and terms of the card which was also what my cousin told me, i agreed and completed their requirement to get the card. Four days later, i heard knock on my door an behold was the courier agent who brought the parcel to my house and today i am rich and i thank God to this hackers and to my cousin brother who lead me to them. It might sounds odd but you can get yours via email: darkwebcyberhackers@gmail.com OR darkwebcyberhackers@yahoo.com or WhatsApp: +18033921735

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  54. I lost my coin to fake Binary Options trading impostors on Facebook, they contacted me as blockchain official support and i fell stupidly for their mischievous act, this made them gain access into my blockchain wallet whereby 7.0938 bitcoin was stolen from my wallet in total. I was almost in a comma and dumbfounded because this was all my savings. Then I made a research online and found a recovery expert , with the contact address bitcoinrecoveryservice@gmail.com I wrote directly to the specialist explaining my loss founds. After 24hours all my lost founds was recovered back to my wallet. all thanks to him and his service.

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  55. I was looking for a good way to repair my credit card, Finally encountered with fake hackers. trust became very difficult for me because of their inability to clean up the financial mess on my credit report. I was researching on a blog and came across good recommendations about thecredittreatment@gmail.com I decided to give a try. I text and explained to him the bad debts on my profile. surprisingly after 14 days I got a text that my credit score has being increased from 420 to 810, He also taught me how to maintain my financial position to be on good credit line. I recommend this professional and trusted hacker today for the amazing work he did for me

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  56. I was looking for a good way to repair my credit card, Finally encountered with fake hackers. trust became very difficult for me because of their inability to clean up the financial mess on my credit report. I was researching on a blog and came across good recommendations about thecredittreatment@gmail.com I decided to give a try. I text and explained to him the bad debts on my profile. surprisingly after 14 days I got a text that my credit score has being increased from 420 to 810, He also taught me how to maintain my financial position to be on good credit line. I recommend this professional and trusted hacker today for the amazing work he did for me.

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  58. It is a shame how people come in contact with fake hackers, I was a victim too until I met Wizard Schwartz Hacker. He helped me when I needed him the most. His charges are so minimal I decided to help promote him. Some of the services he renders include the following:

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  59. I have had my own share of crypto scams due to referrals from some site, I lost a lot of money and i was still told to send more money to unlock my account because my balance was non-spendable or something else. Sadly i couldn’t count on the police so i reached out to a company that helped. [recoverstolenbitcoin AT gmail DOT com] or +1(475)2954375 .Luckily for me, I was able to get my money back. They showed me how every bitcoin transaction is traceable. Your crypto first goes to the scam wallet, from there bitcoins will travel through some proxy wallets to cover the tracks. But, every single transaction is recorded in block chain. So your bitcoins can be traced to endpoint, which is some bitcoin exchange market. Where they are exchanged for real money. And then the exchanges in questions will have records of who received the money and how they received it. Contact them if you’ve similar issues, You’ll be grateful that you did.

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  60. have been a victim of bitcoin scam about 7 months back. Con artist gained access to my coinbase account through a phishing scam. They stole 2.8 BTC. I was really devastated. I did everything to get back my funds by contacting the support but there was nothing they could do. A friend of my told me about a recovery company name [bitcoinandfundsrecoveryexpert at gmail dot com] I wrote them and They help fight against various investment scam and i could only thank God they were able to retrieve my lost funds.

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  62. Last year, I almost got evicted out of my apartment all because of my low credit score, and not being able to pay up my rent on time, I was very worried and I told a good friend of mine about my low credit score, and not able to pay my bills. He introduce me to a brilliant credit specialist called [creditrepairempires@gmail.com] after 6days, He helped to upgrade my credit score, all the late payments cleared, and also boost my score from 350 to a high 790 . I can now apply for the car loan i wanted for me and my family. He is fast and reliable, God fearing and trusted. I will for ever recommend him to people with Credit related issues.

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  63. RECOVERY OF STOLEN BITCOIN RECOVERY OF LOST MONEY TO SCAMMER LEGIT RECOVERY EXPERT REFERRAL Have you ever been a victim of a scam? or have you lost your money to fake hackers online? I implore you to contact this trustworthy hacker and recovery expert Jackson. I was a victim of fake people posing as binary options and bitcoin investors, I lost a sum of $4,000 and 2BTC from my bitcoin wallet to these fakes. It took a while before I realized they were scams and this really hurt .Then an in-law of mine heard about it and recommended to me a specialist with the address bitcoinrecoveryservice@gmail. com . He helped me recover my lost bitcoin in less than 48hrs and the fakes were caught and made to pay for what they did to me . If you have lost any amount to online scams and you’re seeking to recover loss from wallet hackers, fake hackers, online dating scams, btc wallet hack, recovery of lost funds from fake binary investors .Reach out to BITCOIN RECOVERY SERVICE to help you , and you will be so glad you did so, best believe recovery expert referral.

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  64. I just have to introduce this hacker that I have been working with him on getting my credit score been boosted across the Equifax, TransUnion and Experian report. He made a lot of good changes on my credit report by erasing all the past eviction, bad collections and DUI off my credit report history and also increased my FICO score above 876 across my three credit bureaus report you can contact him for all kind of hacks . Email him here ethicalhackers009@gmail.com for more details,Whatsapp No:+14106350697 if you want to chat them up,One thing i can assure you would not regret this at all he is 100% legit.

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  65. Anyone out there seeking to recover any form of crypto coins and financial assets from online scams or wallet hackers, also BTC sent to wrong addresses, I recommend this very dependable agency Spyware Cyber. This recovery specialist was fantastic in helping me recover my BTC, lost to these evil con-artists after I provided all relative information and requirements to this recovery specialist. Of the 1.4 BTC stolen from my wallet, a total of 1.2BTC was finally recovered. I was glad I was able to recover this much after losing even more to the fake platform I initially contacted before I was in contact with this excellent specialist. Go ahead, and contact Spyware Cyber by email: SPYWARE(@)CYBERGAL.COM, if you are in such a situation seeking recovery from any form of online cryptocurrency scam, tell them the incident and follow their instructions so they could help you with recuperation.

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  66. Time have changed. Technology is evolving everyday. There are new innovations that do not only trace bitcoin addresses but find out what platform or exchange they belong to. Anyone would agree that this is a big step in recovering coins. I lost over $60,000 to Binary Options trading but thanks to bitcoinandfundsrecoveryexpert AT gmail DOT com and his team for their professional and Ethical service rendered in recovering all of my money from this scam binary options company. You can mail them if you need to recover your founds.

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  67. I can only imagine what others have been through in the hands of these fraudulent individuals pretending to be cryptocurrency traders & miners. I just had a lifetime experience with them after meeting someone who claims to be an account manager and could help me make huge returns from my investments. I invested a lot of money with them and when it was time to withdraw my profits, they logged me out of my account and told me to put more money into their account. It was already too late before I realize they were swindlers, I had already lost $383,000 worth of Bitcoin to their fraudulent platform. I was depressed and embarrassed, but I started looking for ways to recover my stolen money and I came across an article about a company Cyberwall Fire which has helped thousands of people recover their money from fraudulent transactions, I don’t know how they did it but Cyberwall fire was able to recover my money in 72 hours. Cyberwall Fire is a reputable company and you can contact them with the following information:
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